🤯 Dropping Jaws and Turning Heads: Can You Put Aftermarket Rims on a Tesla? The Ultimate Guide for Electric Swag!
Listen up, future wheel wizard! You just snagged yourself a Tesla—congratulations, you're officially living in the future! But let's be real, those stock wheels? They're about as exciting as watching paint dry. Sure, they're efficient, but where's the razzle-dazzle? Where's the flex? You’re staring at that sleek, electric beast and thinking, "Can I ditch these humble hubcaps and bolt on some serious aftermarket swag?"
The short answer, you magnificent electric pioneer, is a resounding heck yeah!
However, slapping some random rims on your high-tech chariot isn't like changing the channels on the touchscreen. This is a game of millimeters, mega-torque, and maximizing that precious range. You’ve got to treat your Tesla like the sophisticated, battery-powered supermodel it is. Skip the cheap drama, stick with this guide, and you'll be rolling in style without sacrificing your miles. Let’s dive into the nitty-gritty, shall we?
 |
| Can You Put Aftermarket Rims On A Tesla |
Step 1: Know Your Numbers: The Electric Wheel Math
Before you start drooling over forged aluminum on the internet, you need to grab a calculator and get intimate with your Tesla's factory specs. This isn't your grandpappy's old gas-guzzler; a few extra pounds or an off-kilter fit can seriously mess with your car's brain and, more importantly, its range.
1.1 The Crucial Quadruplets (Bolt Pattern, Center Bore, Offset, and Diameter)
Bolt Pattern (PCD): This is the most critical number. For most modern Teslas (Model 3/Y/S/X), you're looking for a 5x114.3mm (or 5x4.5") pattern. If your new wheel doesn't have this, it won't bolt up—period. It's like trying to put a square peg in a fancy, electrified round hole.
Center Bore: Your Tesla has a specific center bore of 64.1mm (Model 3/Y) that centers the wheel perfectly on the axle. You need your aftermarket wheel to either match this exactly or be slightly larger and use a hub-centric ring to bridge the gap. Don't skip the ring, pal, unless you want your drive to feel like a washing machine on the spin cycle.
Offset (ET): Measured in millimeters, this is how far the wheel mounting surface is from the centerline of the wheel. It dictates how far your wheels poke out or tuck in. Too low of an offset (e.g., a smaller positive number) and your tires might rub the fender—a total bummer. For most Model 3/Y upgrades, sticking close to the factory +35mm to +40mm range is a safe bet.
Diameter: The factory wheels typically roll out at 18" or 19", sometimes 20". Going too big (like 21" or 22") looks killer, but be warned: larger, heavier wheels will cut into your battery range. Every extra pound of unsprung weight (stuff not supported by the suspension) makes the motors work harder. It's simple physics, my friend, and physics is a harsh mistress.
1.2 The TPMS Tangle
QuickTip: Repetition signals what matters most.
Your car uses a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) sensor in each wheel to tell the car's computer the air pressure. Your new aftermarket rims need a new set of Tesla-compatible TPMS sensors. You can't just move the old ones over easily, and if you don't install the new ones, your dash will light up like a Christmas tree of doom. Nobody wants that drama.
Step 2: The Shopping Spree: Choosing Your Electric Kicks
This is where the fun starts! You've got the specs; now let's find the hardware.
2.1 Weight Watchers: Lightweight is Right-Weight
Remember that range thing? Go for lightweight flow-formed or, if your wallet is feeling super plump, fully forged wheels. They weigh less than the standard cast wheels, which can actually help mitigate the range hit of going to a bigger diameter. A lighter wheel is a happier Tesla. This is where you separate the show cars from the true performance builds.
2.2 Clearance Check: Don't Forget the Big Brakes!
If you own a Performance model, you've got those chunky, awesome Brembo brake calipers. Not all wheels are designed to clear those bad boys. Always check with the wheel manufacturer that their design has been tested and confirmed for Performance model brake clearance. It would be a major letdown to get your dream wheels only to find they won't even spin!
Tip: The middle often holds the main point.
2.3 The Tire Tale: Matching Rubber to the Rim
You need to select the correct tire size to mount on your new rims while keeping the overall diameter close to the original. This is key to keeping the speedometer and the car’s traction control happy. For example, if you go from an 18" wheel to a 20" wheel, you need a tire with a much lower profile (smaller sidewall) to compensate.
Step 3: The Big Swap: Installation Day
You’ve got the goods, now it’s time for the glow-up. Seriously, unless you have solid wrenching skills and the proper tools, take it to a pro! They have the specialized low-profile jacks and the perfect torque settings.
 |
3.1 Engage 'Jack Mode' – The Tesla Ritual
Before anything happens, you need to put the car into Jack Mode. You do this on the touchscreen under Controls > Service > Jack Mode. This is super important! It disables the self-leveling suspension (if equipped) and prevents damage to the high-voltage battery undercarriage when jacking up the car. Ignoring this is a rookie mistake and an expensive gamble.
3.2 Jack Pads: Don't Be a Caveman
Your Tesla has specific jack points on the frame. To safely lift the car without damaging the battery enclosure, you need special rubber jack pads. These things are cheap and non-negotiable. Don't be that guy who tries to use a piece of wood.
Tip: Summarize each section in your own words.
3.3 The Star Pattern and the Torque
Once the new wheels are on, the most crucial step is tightening those lug nuts down correctly. You need to tighten them in a star pattern to ensure the wheel is seated perfectly flush against the hub.
Initial Snug: Use a wrench to hand-snug the lug nuts in the star pattern.
Torque Time: Use a calibrated torque wrench to tighten the nuts to the exact factory specification. For most Teslas, this is 129 lb-ft (175 Nm). Tighten in the star pattern, going in two or three passes until they hit that sweet, sweet click. Over-tightening is just as bad as under-tightening!
3.4 The Re-Torque Reality Check
You're done! You look awesome! But wait, there's more. After about 50 to 100 miles of driving, you must re-torque your lug nuts. The wheel can settle slightly, and those nuts can loosen. This is a critical safety step, so set a reminder, or you'll be feeling like a true ding-dong when a wheel starts wobbling.
FAQ Questions and Answers
How does putting on new rims affect my Tesla's driving range?
Lighter wheels (like flow-formed or forged) closer to the OEM size will have a minimal impact. However, going for significantly larger and heavier wheels, especially those with poor aerodynamic design, can reduce your driving range by 5% to 15% due to increased mass and rolling resistance.
QuickTip: Focus on one paragraph at a time.
Will aftermarket rims void my Tesla warranty?
No, generally not. Tesla can't legally void your entire warranty just for changing the wheels (thanks, Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act). However, if an issue is directly caused by the aftermarket wheels (like suspension component failure due to an incorrect offset), they can deny a warranty claim for that specific repair.
How can I make sure my new wheels clear the brakes?
If you have a Performance model with larger calipers, you must confirm the wheel's offset and internal barrel design will provide clearance. The best way is to buy from a reputable dealer specializing in Tesla aftermarket parts, as they confirm fitment beforehand.
What is the biggest wheel size I can put on a Model 3/Y?
While some folks push it to 22 inches, the optimal size for balancing looks, performance, and range is typically 19 to 20 inches. Going larger than 20 inches significantly increases the risk of road damage to the low-profile tires and a noticeable reduction in range.
Do I need new lug nuts for my aftermarket wheels?
It depends on the wheel! Some aftermarket wheels use a different seat (conical or ball) than the Tesla factory lug nuts. Using the wrong lug nut style can lead to loosening and dangerous wheel-off situations. Always confirm with the wheel manufacturer if you need specialized lug nuts.
 |
